‘Time out’ – for A Miracle….

I have the pleasure of meeting many visitors to the island, when they come to view the Art exhibition and it’s lovely to hear their comments; not only words of appreciation and encouragement for the artists but how they are enjoying their holiday in general and what makes Skiathos so special for them. Time and time again I hear the words (apart from the regular: natural beauty, wonderful climate, great beaches, friendly people etc) “It’s just so laid-back’ ” and ‘We’re having the most relaxing time ever!’

Well, I could hardly call the time I’ve spent here since February, either ‘laid-back or ‘relaxing’! But they remind me of why I love the life here…..and made me aware that somewhere along the line I’ve forgotten to ‘stop and smell the flowers’……
My painter, Nikos, also served me a reminder me the other day when he was painting the rear of the villa. He came running in, breathlessly excited about something and insisted I stop what I was doing, immediately, and follow him.

He lead me to the large Evia oak tree in the back garden and then stood perfectly still, just staring at it. So I did the same (with no clue as to what I was supposed to be looking at!). A tree is a tree after all and although this Evia oak is a spectacular specimen, I’d seen it many, many times before – studied it even, for a painting once. I knew it well!

After some time, becoming slightly irritated (I had work to do – and so, for that matter, had he!) I began to turn away.
“Wait!” he ordered “Just wait!”
‘OK’ I thought, ‘I’m obviously missing something. Lets see…..’
I began to make a mental note: Large gnarled trunk, greyish, textured, thick at the base, tapering at the top. Wide elegant branches reaching out in all directions, covered with roundish sage-green leaves that seem to shimmer silver in the sunlight; as the breeze ripples through, showing their paler undersides – like thousands of glittering silver dollars cascading through the air. Nope. A beautiful specimen, as Evia oaks go – but nothing unusual, as far as I could see….

I made to leave again, Nikos caught my arm.
“Just wait – you’ll see a miracle!” he insisted
I looked more closely in the direction he was pointing to and saw a larger than average, bright green new leaf in bud. Behind it, further back along the branch and onto the trunk, was a row of greyish ‘lumps’. Knobbly bits of bark or so I thought till suddenly I saw one of then move! I rubbed my eyes in disbelief – yes! it had definitely moved….and it moved again….and again…creeping ever so slowly, along the branch towards the new leaf bud.

When it reached it, tiny front legs appeared and clamped themselves around the base of the bud. Within seconds the ‘leaf’ now began to move too, growing larger and larger before my eyes. Suddenly, in one swift moment, it burst open, revealing….not a leaf at all but a beautiful pair of bright lime green unfurling wings!
“Oh! What on earth is it?” I squealed in both delight and horror.
” A tzitzicas!” Nikos whispered, trying to control his excitement, “Shsh! See! See!”
Suddenly its legs appeared, groping blindly to steady it’s grasp on the branch! As soon as it had began extricating itself from its brown crusty ‘shell’, the ‘lump’ which had assisted in it’s metamorphosis, began to sprout a new green ‘leaf’ of its own. That in turn, triggered another ‘knobbly lump’ to egde its way along the branch towards it. Within the space of a few minutes, a whole converyor belt of ‘Tzitzicas’ had helped eachother into the world, in this way. It was an awesome site. A miracle indeed!
At this point I ran in for my camera but when I returned, just a few seconds later, four swifts dived in and, in one fell swoop, gobbled up the whole lot of them! After all that effort and team work, It felt sad to see new life swept away before it had barely begun! Nature’s way, the law of survival, can be so harsh sometimes.
A ‘tzitzicas’ is of course, a ‘cidada’.
The noise it makes is deafening and though it may sound as though there are thousands of them there are probably only a few hundred perched in the trees surrounding the house at the moment.
I used to marvel at the sheer volume of sound a single one can produce! Knowing now, as I do, the unsurmountable odds it takes simply to reach maturity, I think, if I was a cidada, I would be doing my utmost to let the whole world proudly know of my achievement and make sure everyone was aware of my presence, too!

Nature may seem ‘cruel’ yet I firmly believe in a simple philosophy of Life: ‘What goes around, come around’. A few days later my electrician, Panagiotis, called me to the meter box, on the outside of the house, where he ‘d been working. He lifted off the (broken) glass front to show me what he’d uncovered; a swift’s nest, beautifully, laboriously constructed from moss, leaves and twigs (I used to spend many an hour entranced by the elegant ballet they perform in the sky every springtime when they arrive) Inside, were six perfect, tiny, swift’s eggs. Before I could stop him, he’d lifted out the nest and picked up one of the eggs between his fingers. I took it off him, replaced it with the others and moved the whole nest into a nearby tree, fully aware that it was fultile; the mother would probably never touch it now. Sure enough the nest remained abandoned until one day all the eggs just disappeared; eaten by a snake most probably, I was told (Yes, we have them too! But that’s a story for another day)

These are just two of the incidents that forced me me slow down this week and both are typically part of the life here on a Greek island. I’m reminded of Laurence Durrell’s writing in his book ‘My Family and Other Animals’, when as a boy in Corfu he would lie in the undergrowth of the olive groves or wait patiently, wedged between rocks in a cove, for hours at a time, mesmerised by the comings and goings of spiders, ants and suchlike. He lived in another world, one in which these ‘miracles’ occur all the time. It’s a world we all share – yet its one that’s all too easy to take for granted and to overlook, as we go about our busy, busy lives……How many ‘miracles’ will you witness today, before your head touches your pillow?

Easter Art Exhibition & Skiathos TV

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I got through the most frustrating moments of the building project by retreating into the art studio to lose myself in painting. I had to complete 2 canvasses before I left, for the forthcoming Art Exhibition which (weather permitting!) will be held on the Bourtzi on (Greek) Easter Saturday; April 26th. The theme is ‘On the Wing’ and more than 20 local artists are donating their paintings of birds. Here are my contributions:

Peacock at Evangelistra

‘Peacock at Evangelistra’

‘Guinea Fowl’

There will also be a wonderful display of decorative eggs (including several beautiful antique ones) and many of the islanders and their children have been busily decorating eggs to sell on the day. There will be an introductory talk of the significance of the egg and its history in this, the most important date in the Greek Orthodox calendar. All proceeds this year will go to charity for local children with special needs. I was delighted to be invited onto the Art Committee that was set up to organize the event and along with all the usual wonderful traditional Easter festivities, that draw so many visitors to the island each year, all in all it promises to be a wonderful occasion. I’m only sorry to be missing the celebrations myself this year.

SKIATHOS TV

One of the highlights of this trip was when I was invited to appear on Skiathos TV again – this time to give a demonstration on FLOWER PAINTING, as a guest of my friend, fellow artist Despina Mtselou. With my command of the Greek language still being so poor (but improving all the time!!), she kindly translated for me as I showed various techniques using acrylics and water colour. During the 45 minute programme, I painted several spring flowers including poppies, tulips and pansies that are abundant all over the island at this time of year. As soon as I can figure out how to do it, I will add a short clip from the DVD.

This was the final and largest painting, in acrylics on canvas, of irises. It now hangs in the foyer of the TV studio!

To answer a few questions about Skiathos

This is a second article taken directly from Jack Causton’s ‘Blue Book’ in which he answers a few of the more commonly asked questions about Skiathos:

“How did Skiathos get its name?

‘Skiathos’ means ‘Shadow of Athos’, and although it is separated from the Athos Peninsula by 150 km (90 miles) of open sea, the visibility in Greece is so amazingly clear that the 2,033 m high peak of the Holy Mountain can, on occasion, be seen from Skiathos.

How many other islands are there in the Aegean?

About 165 inhabited islands and over 1,200 which are un-inhabited.

What is so special about Skiathos?

In three words; beaches, greenery and villas. There are as many as seventy sandy beaches and coves spread out around its indented coastline and separated from each other by steep rocky headlands and one of them, Koukounaries, (‘Bay of Stone Pines’) is claimed to be the finest beach in Greece. Practically all the beaches provide excellent safe bathing and wonderful under-water swimming. Many of the Aegean islands are rocky and barren and some almost completely devoid of trees and vegetation; Skiathos is one of the great exceptions. It is a green, green island, with rolling hills chequered with dark-green pine plantations and vast silver-green olive groves and well-watered valleys shaded by giant plane, poplar and chestnut trees. There are also many varities of fruit trees and abundant natural vegetation, which includes white and purple heather, ferns, broom and evergreen arbutus unedo (strawberry bush). In spring the island is a riot of wild flowers.

What about the villas?

This is a story in itself and another article; ‘The Early days of Villa Development’ will tell you how it all started.

At present there are over 300 (in 1979- today its closer to 3,000!) attractive and well-equipped villas most of them with mains electricity, piped water and septic tank drainage and built to a standard which compares favourably with that of villas anywhere in Greece. These villas which are nearly all on sites of at least 2 stremata (half an acre) fall into several categories; the beach villa, with the tranquil Aegean only a few meters from the terrace; the ‘cliff-hanger’, built up high on a rocky cliff or headland, with steep steps winding down to a sandy cove below and magnificent views straight out to sea; and the hill-side villa, set amoungst pines or an olive grove having panoramic views over country and sea. These villas and the numerous, self-contained apartments, hotels and studios, more recently built, provide ideal holiday accommodation for families and can be rented (when not occupied by their owners) for periods of a week, a fortnight or longer.

Is there anything Skiathos lacks?

There are no archeaological remains (or none that have as yet been unearthed), no museum (update: there is a Folklore museum at Evangelistria), no casino, no sophisticated entertainment (there is now a thriving night life!, Pubs, bars, clubs and restaurants, offering a wide choice of international cuisines to suit every taste and pocket can be found both in Skiathos Town and other more recently developed self-contained resorts, such as Troulos and Koukounaries).

What is the best time to visit the island?

This depends on what is your primary interest. If this is bathing and sun-bathing then come in June, July or August when the sun normally shines all day, every day. It is however warm enough to swim in May and September and also in October and November. In spring and autumn moreover, in addition to being much less crowded, the island is at its greenest and these are the ideal times for walking. Those that want to see the wonderful wild flowers at their best and observe the abundant bird life (see separate article on ‘Flowers and Wildlife’) should come in March and April.

What is the town like?

The town, which is of course also the port, is situated on one of the finest natural harbours in the Aegean – a vast beautiful bay, which is completely sheltered from the northerly Meltemi. From the sea, the town is a most attractive sight – the white-washed red-roofed houses clustered on two low hills, the colourful awnings of the cafes and shops which face the quay; the fishing caiques and luxury yachts, moored side by side and, at one end of the main harbour, the Bourtzi Island which is approached by a small causeway. To absorb something of the atmosphere of the town read the separate article: ‘Shopping, Eating and Drinking’.

What is there to see and do in the town?

The churches in the two main squares (the ‘Upper’ and the ‘Lower’) are worth a visit, as is also the house of the famous Greek writer Alexander Papadiamantis (this has been preserved more or less as it was when he occupied it over 70 years ago). A wonderful view of the town can be obtained from the small church of Aghios Nicolas, which is on top of the hill with the clock tower on it – approached from the side waterfront (The tower also now houses the Skiathos live web-cam). There is also good bathing off the Bourtzi and if you want entertainment there are numerous bars, pubs and restaurants with live music to suit all tastes. But to appreciate the charm and warmth of this small town you must do the ordinary things; sit at a café or restaurant leisurely sipping an ouzo (accompanied by the customary plate of meze), observing the evening volta along the paralia (waterfront) or watch the fishing boats chugging in to tie up for the night; stroll through the narrow streets, where old people sit outside on their door-steps on a hot evening; saunter down the pedestrian only, cobbled main (Papadiamantis) St. lined with glittering gift and artisan shops and modern fashion boutiques and visit the many tavernas where young lads of the village perform impromptu dances to the strident sounds of the bouzouki.

What beaches should I visit?

The ‘musts’ are Koukounaries and Lalaria but there are a large number of other lovely beaches and coves on the island. The separate article ‘Bathing and boating’ will help you select the ones most suited to your requirements.

What else is there to see and do?

I maintain that you really won’t have seen the island at all unless you’ve taken a walk into the still largely unspoiled interior, meandered through one of the beautiful fertile valleys; strolled in a pine forest amidst the profusion of ferns and heather; walked along a ridge of the hills and looked down at the shimmering silver blue waters of the Aegean, far below you; visited one of the many monasteries and country churches or the remains of the old fortress town of Kastro. The article ‘Walks and rides’ will describe some of these places to you and tell you how to get there. Also of course you should also do some trips by boat – particularly one right around the island, if possible – and if you walk along the paralia in the evening you will see details of the next day’s trips put up on notice boards beside the handsome caiques which make them.

What is the main livelihood of the local community?

It’s always been olives. It was once, possibly olives, and also caique-building and fishing. It is now almost certainly, olives and tourism. Skiathos, with its 6,000 olive trees is a wealthy island by Greek standards and a good crop (harvested between October & March) could be worth as much as (£563,000 in 1979). The majority of its people have always been and still are, basically peasant farmers. One of the particular charms of this island is that the daily life of its small community goes on much as it did fifty or a hundred years ago. And the visitor, in observing it can feel he has stepped back into another age; an age of tranquillity and content. The church plays an important role in the life of the Greek people and the articles ‘Faith and Folklore’ and ‘Christos Anesti’ will give you an insight into some of the significant religious events of the year.

Is Skiathos a good place for retirement?

It’s not easy to give a straight and useful answer to this question. From the point of view of climate, the beauty of one’s surroundings and a quiet and relaxed atmosphere the answer is definitely ‘yes!’ but not everyone can live happily on a small island and if theatres, concerts or even bowl or golf play an important part in your life, Skiathos is probably not for you. Then there are always the little difficulties and strange happenings which are always cropping up, many of them caused by language misunderstandings; these are often amusing in retrospect but, at the time, liable to raise one’s blood pressure. All in all though, given the right temperament one can find happiness here – my wife and I certainly have. A hobby of some sort is essential but this can be reading, gardening, painting – or even editing Guide books!”