Update:
The 'WELCOME!' page is now a 'sticky' (Latest 'BLOG POSTS' follow on)
‘PAINTING SKIATHOS’ is open to ALL!
Offering both personal and group tuition, ‘PAINTING SKIATHOS’, located at Villa Nicara, Kolios, Skiathos, welcomes all artists: established, would-be ones, beginners and non-painting partners alike and art tutors too! It was founded with the sole purpose of bringing together art lovers from all over the globe in a spirit of generosity to learn, exchange and share their interests and skills and to nurture and promote the creative arts.
Firmly believing there is an artist in all of us, I liken Art to a train ride; one that we can embark on, or disembark from, at any time of our life. We may all be at different stages of the great adventure but there is undoubtedly plenty of room on board for us all. Whether our inner artist remains hidden in the ‘child within’ or it has already found a creative path to explore, self-expression through Art is a continually evolving and supremely fulfilling journey – but a very individual and personal one. There is no ‘right or ‘wrong’, ‘good or bad’. There are rules (made to be broken!) and techniques to be learned, certainly, but they are only for you to make of them what you will; use them, abuse them, adopt or disregard them, at will, as you experiment and find what works for YOU!
By offering this unique venue (with both its all-inclusive painting holidays, classes and workshops with a weekly/daily ‘drop-in’ facility) I aim to provide a platform for everyone wishing to discover or develop their ‘artist within’ and an opportunity to perpetuate traditional Greek art and craft techniques (such as icon-painting, lace-making, wool-dyeing and rug-weaving – to name but a few) that are all too quickly disappearing from our hectic modern world. To be in a position of facilitating that freedom of expression for others, even in a small way, is my greatest reward and I consider it a privilege to have this opportunity to do so. For that reason ‘Painting Skiathos’ welcomes everyone:
Individual Artists
Whether you’re a professional, a keen enthusiast, a complete beginner or an aspiring artist (regardless of ability) all you need is a desire to be creative and have fun! If you would like any more information or have a particular course/workshop in mind that is not shown here, please don’t hesitate to drop me a line (see below). With my network of tutors in many creative disciplines, I’ll be more than happy to accommodate your request.and arrange something to suit.
Art Groups/Societies
Special discounted rates apply for parties of 8 or more. If you are part of an art group/society and would like to arrange a ‘group’ painting holiday together, just let me know and I can arrange everything for you.
Teachers/ Children’s Courses
Teachers looking for art/activity holiday workshops, alone or with their pupils, are also welcome and special rates apply
Artists on Retreat
If you’re an artist seeking either the company of fellow painters or a solitary peaceful retreat, in order to paint or find new inspiration (and require no instruction), there is no charge for the use of studio, gardens and swimming pool. However, any tuition, use of art materials, refreshments, lunches, excursions and transport (including airport/port transfers) will be charged accordingly; costs determined and payable on site. Prior booking is essential.
(All art materials will be provided though you are welcome to bring your own).
View of Villa Nicara from the swimming pool
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CALL FOR TUTORS
Painting Skiathos is keen to be able to offer as wide a range as possible of art tuition. So, if you are an art tutor and would like to join us and share your skill, to complement (or supplement) your own holiday on Skiathos, please drop me a line.
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FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND THIS SITE:
More information can be found on separate PAGES. (See the tabs above or visit the ‘About’ pages, listed in the side bar (R)
Also in the side bar (on R) you can find regularly updated blog ‘POSTS’ which provide an insight to all aspects of Skiathos life including its people, history, customs, traditions, architecture, flora & fauna, exhibitions and cultural & social events et al, as well as its natural beauty.
There are also plenty of additional links to information about Skiathos, myself and fellow artists and to galleries of our work.
There are plenty of PHOTO ALBUMS and VIDEOS for you to view too!
Kastro
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If you think you’d like to join me in my beautiful island home:
TO REQUEST PRICES, RECEIVE A COMPLETE ‘INFO PACK’ & FOR ALL OTHER ENQUIRIES
Please use the comment box: (see ‘LEAVE A COMMENT’ at the top of this page)
I invite you to join me for many happy hours painting together, on this beautiful island of Skiathos
and I look forward to hearing from you sometime soon!
Yvonne Ayoub
Well, that’s it! The summer season in Skiathos is finally, officially, over for another year. It ended as the last charter plane, carrying the few remaining tourists took off into the clear blue sky this afternoon. Most businesses that hadn’t already closed, rolled down their shutters and stacked their chairs for the last time last night. Many islanders have already departed for their well-earned rest and once again, peace and tranquility reigns.
I haven’t quite finished my work here – I have just two more mornings of teaching to go but already I’ve been able to steal away each afternoon, high up into the hills to try to catch the late autumnal light and long shadows and paint undisturbed with only birdsong for company. With the forecast that from Tuesday the weather will change, I wanted to make the most of what remains of this glorious Indian summer we’ve been enjoying – everything looks particularly beautiful right now; the hillsides are covered in heather and the leaves are turning from glowing gold to rust. It’s been impossible to capture the beauty and serenity of the island at this time of year and to do it full justice but, well, here’s my latest attempt anyway:
With only one week or so to go before I too will head for home and there’s much to keep me busy, battening down the hatches, till then. I was told today that the abundance of berries on my pyracantha bushes is a sure sign of a harsh winter ahead.
Every five or six years or so Skiathos gets covered in a deep blanket of snow….perhaps another one is due though it’s hard to imagine right now, bathed as we are in glorious sunshine and as the grapes still hang heavy on the vine:
Roses are still in full bloom:
and even in the olive grove, fresh new grass shoots and the first spring flowers have already begun pushing up though the earth:
We rarely suffer from frost here and I heard somewhere that snow is good for the garden…so I hope everything will survive and flourish again next year. What is unlikely to survive a really heavy snowfall is the old tiled roof on the ancient stone Kalivi:
Come to think about it, even the art studio roof looks unlikely to weather another winter - even a mild one, so there will be some hoisting up of temporary support beams to complete before the week’s out too!
Then there’s the packing. I always intend to travel light (one day I WILL manage with just a passport and a toothbrush!) but my wonderfully generous Skiathite friends have been dropping by all week with all kinds of autumnal offerings; homemade fig jams, walnut liqueurs, cakes, quince preserves, pickles, raisins in syrup, soft cheeses etc- all of which will be a real treat to share and sample around Christmas time! Next year I hope to add Greek Cooking to the growing list of workshops on offer and once I have my own kitchen garden planted up next spring, I’ll be eager to learn how to make all these myself!
But spring is still a fair way off and I’m eager to return to my family and my city life…. and take things easy for a bit – although with a new commission lined up; another large wall mural for a London restaurant, I won’t be putting my feet up just yet! But on a cold, dark winter’s night, when Skiathos seems a million miles away I’ll look at this picture my student, Maria, painted today:
and start looking forward to another season…and my return to, in the words of my dear friend Kostas: my ‘little corner of heaven on earth’……..
I’ll leave you with the beautiful words from another of Richard Buchanan Dunlop’s fine poems: ‘Aegean Autumn’
“The short warm days that touch the paling sea
Are sleepy now in autumn’s gentle lights
They do not touch the place where summer sleeps
But lap the verges of the long drawn nights
The mists of morning cloud the distant hills
On islands peeping from the greying sea
Where in the shadows of the dew damp ground
Cicadas now have ceased their symphony
And in autumn all the flowers reawake
To glory in the softness of the day
Arbutus bushes drip down nature’s blood
Whilst all of summer falls into decay
The swallows muster in their multifold
Harbingers of the falling of the leaves
They like the tourists fly to other homes
Their nests now empty in the shadowed eaves
The beaches that were filled with noisy life
Now lie in silence waiting for the spring
The clockwork of the summer’s music box
Is now unwound is now a dormant thing
The gods are now at home they’ve had their fun
Their garlands hang on some Olympan door
They sip their sips of wine they dream their dreams
No longer do they fight they have no war
The splendour of the autumn passes on
the golden days draw ever further in
The tides of life fall on an empty shore
Wiping the debried slate of nature clean
Oh winsome days that smile upon us all
That wash the dust of summer from the land
The pride of the Aegean the golden fall
Now strokes the soul of nature with its hand”
‘Yvonne’s World’ Digital painting by Beth Edwards (1stAngel)
How many times have you heard this:
“Attention! Ladies and Gentlemen. This store will be closing in 20 minutes. Please proceed immediately to the nearest checkout with your purchases and exit through the main entrance. Thank you for shopping with us and have a nice day.”
Well, like a huge department store, Skiathos too is closing. There are just a few days to go before the last charter planes and ferry boats will carry away the last tide of tourists. Awnings will be rolled-in and dismantled. Shop-front shutters will be rolled down and secured for the last time, this year. Taverna chairs and tables, beach beds and brollies and bed-linen and mattresses will be stacked, packed and stored away as another season comes to an end. Summer is officially over and sad as it may appear, for many, namely the weary waiters, chefs and shopkeepers, holiday reps and hoteliers, it’s not a day too soon.
For them it’s been months of relentless hard work and few will be sorry to see the island return to it’s naturally serene and slow pace, not least those of us who remain behind. Now it’s our turn for a holiday and a chance to enjoy (for a short time at least) another other side to Skiathos; the peaceful side, an island, still open to the elements but no longer baked crisp and dry by the unforgiving heat of the sun but one slowly returning to verdant green, refreshed by soft rain, it’s shores lapped by in the sparkling seas as it basks warmly in the late autumn sun.
(The seas around the Sporades can be seen this brilliant turquoise colour in late summer – it’s a phenomenon only visible under certain weather conditions, and usually only at this time of year)
In the words of local poet and artist, Richard Buchanan-Dunlop, in his poem ‘Autumn Dance’:
“For Autumn dance is filled with bursting grapes
That in the summer have absorbed the sun
And so the muses have now called us out
To turn the Sun to wine now Summer’s done
The fruits of Autumn cannot last for long
For Winter is the king of nature’s night
And we with him must dance the long night’s dance
Till the day of the White Horses kindle light“
(The ‘day of the white horses’ refers to the day of the battle of Salamis, fought on 20th October, BC 480 in Aeschylus’ poem ‘Salamis’)
Before heading back to London I look forward lazy days filled with long walks along the deserted beaches (without a sun-lounger in sight!) or venturing high in the hills with only birdsong to break the silence – instead of the roaring engines of the rental 4 x 4’s and mopeds that have traversed the island and flattened the riverbeds and mule tracks all summer. Idle chatter over a leisurely glass of ouzo will be the order of the day, on the all but deserted ‘Paralia’, once the pleasure boats are returned to the dry-dock to over- winter. The community will draw together once again; friends and neighbours will finally have the chance to catch up and exchange their experiences and stories of the past summer.
And what a summer it’s been!
After a late and very shaky start, filled with trepidation and uncertainty (in light of the global economic crisis) eternal optimism, it seems, has paid off. Speaking to many local business owners, it would appear most have enjoyed a pretty lucrative summer season after all, ‘Enough to see us through the winter months and keep the banks at bay anyway”, seems to be the general consensus.
Many days were marked by the regular monthly religious festivals (there’s always a saint/feast day/icon to be celebrated):
(photos courtesy of Lauren Cook)
There were the annual, commemorative historical events such as this one on September 14, the Lambros Katsonis Submarine Memorial. (While trying to intercept a German troop transport, she was attacked and sunk by the German submarine chaser UJ-2101. 32 men of the crew, including Cdr Laskos, went down with her, and 15 were captured. However, Lt Eleftherios Tsoukalas, the ship’s XO, and petty officers Antonios Antoniou and Anastasios Tsigros, managed to swim for 9 hours and reach Skiathos. There they hid and eventually managed to return to Egypt and rejoin the Greek fleet).
and plenty of patriotic parades:
as well as the usual art and cultural exhibitions (including, most notably an exhibition tracing the history and traditions of the people of Asia Minor who had settled on the island following the seizure of their lands by the Ottoman Empire, more than a century ago). There were choir and dance festivals and a series of concerts staged at the Bourtzi’s outdoor theatre.
One such memorable event was a benefit concert, organised by Vasilis Koralis to raise funds for the local dog and cat shelters:
Unfortunately, immediately following the introductory speeches given by Vasilis, Mayor Nikos Plomaritis, and representatives from the two charities, there was a clap of thunder, the sky lit up with flashes of lightning and the audience had to run for cover as the heavens opened! Sadly, the event had to be postponed.
Happily though, a couple of weeks later, the show went ahead (this time at the local tennis club) and the evening’s entertainment, aptly called ‘Skiathos Has Talent’, with participants of all ages, was enjoyed by all! Here are just some of the many acts who entertained us:
Gigi Varsakis with her young dancers
Elaine katerina
Skiathos’ very own, ‘home-grown’, teenage rock band ‘Kids’
This man stole the show with his natural flair for enteraining, his fabulous voice (and his unforgettable ‘Elvis’ knee trembling!!)
Music provided by Graham (above) and Derek (below) who also stage managed the event
Star turn Selena, the belly dancer
Sharon Hewing (founder of the Skiathos Cat Welfare Society) and Helen Bozas (Founder of the Skiathos Dog Shelter) thank Vasilis Koralis for a truly memorable evening – one well worth waiting for!
All such events play an intrinsic part of Skiathos island life throughout the summer months and the constant stream of holiday makers, in search of rest and relaxation were probably pleasantly surprised to find the huge variety of events Skiathos had to offer, in addition to it’s glorious weather (most of the time!) clear blue seas, sandy beaches, ancient monasteries, picturesque setting and bustling night-life .
Personally speaking, my summer has been absolutely wonderful! Filled with adventure after adventure, inspiration and creativity has known no bounds. I’ve been truly blessed with a constant stream of wonderful guests; artists, enthusiasts and visitors, from all corners of the world, each of whom, without exception, have so generously shared their passions, emotions and skills.
Students of Irish artist & guest tutor, Mary Dillon’s water colour master class
I finally got to meet my dear friend, fellow artist and blogger, ChrissyMarie
and her lovely partner Andy:
A liquid lunch with Despina, Maggie, Liz (from Scotland and Australia) & my dad, at Theo Tzoumas’ (Top R.) restaurant, ‘Mesostrato’ situated at Ag. Paraskevi (absolutely the best pork chops on the island!)
One of several meetings this summer, with fellow ‘Boomerangers’ from the Bulletin Board of www.skiathosinfo.com‘. Here at Rosemary & Georges lovely restaurant, ‘Varelli’ in Troulos.
A day out at my favourite place on earth, Kastro, with more fellow ‘Boomerangers’: Sue, Darren and Steve.
Dad & I enjoy a surprise visit (and impromptu piano recital) by the supremely talented Maz, his wife Kaz and friends
Sharing a cipouro (or three!) with Liz, My dad, Thanassis, Maggie and Theodoros, on the harbour, after a long day on the high seas visiting neighbouring islands, Skopelos & Alonnissos.
Maggie and Liz had never painted before. They were complete beginners (!) on my ‘Introduction to Painting’ course – just look at the amazing paintings they managed to produce after just one week’s tuition!:
Liz’s still life in water colour
and her first painting en plein air, of Kastro (in acrylics on canvas)
Maggie’s still life in water colour
And her first painting, of the beach at Kastro, in acrylics on canvas.
Fabulous, funny, fearless, feisty ladies, both – Their visit was total delight and I am SO proud of them!
My dad (R) and dear friend Ian, raising a glass,
Ian’s lovely wife Kamila with their gorgeous baby, Olivia.
I was so taken by her wonderful smile (and colourful sun hat!) that I was inspired to capture her in oils. Here’s the completed portrait:
And here’s my last guest of the season:
the lovely Carole Robinson (L), a hugely successful and talented artist from Edinburgh who works primarily in glass but came in search of new skills and inspiration. Here she stands rightly proud of her very first attempt at Byzantine icon painting (amazing!) with her tutor, my dearest friend, Despina Mitselou.
And here is a fine example of her work: a beautiful piece, in my favourite ‘Skiathos’ colours, that I had specially commissioned (and that she carried all the way from Scotland for me!):
Thank you, Carole, and for your wonderful wisdom and friendship. (See you soon – and bring Nigel LOL!)
Yes, it’s been a wonderful summer. Life-long friendships have been forged and I pinch myself every day! When I began this venture I secretly hoped for, but dared not imagine it would be such a rewarding fulfilling experience. All my expectations have been exceeded a hundred-fold and it’s with complete humility and gratitude that I would like to thank everyone who helped in making ‘Painting Skiathos’ the successful enterprise it’s become……Most of all my husband and children for their constant support and for allowing me the time and space to follow and realise my dream….Gosh! How lucky am I?
There are many more new photos of all of this season’s classes and excursions to see.
Please visit the new ‘PHOTO ALBUMS’
ITS COMPETITION TIME!
Would you like to join me for a FREE painting holiday here on Skiathos?
‘Painting Skiathos, in conjunction with ‘ARTISTS & ILLUSTRATORS‘ magazine, is offering one lucky reader:
A WEEK’S PAINTING HOLIDAY FOR TWO (worth over £1.000!)*
Competition details and entry forms can be found in the latest (September) edition of
‘ARTISTS & ILLUSTRATORS‘ magazine (out now!):
To enter, all you have to do is find the answer (you’ll find it on this site!) to a simple question about Skiathos and send it, along with your contact details, to the address provided on the entry form, by September 30th – it couldn’t be easier!
Good Luck everyone!
I look forward to welcoming the lucky winner(s) to Villa Nicara, very soon!
*The prize, of one week’s painting holiday includes airport/port transfers, accommodation (for two people sharing a twin room with breakfast & lunch included) tuition, all art materials and 3 full Day excursions (NB: Travel to and from Skiathos is not included)
‘Seagull’ © Costis Hatzi0annou
Regular followers of this blog will know that from time to time I like to draw attention to the work of an exceptional ‘Skiathos’ artist .
Well today the spotlight falls on the truly remarkable talent of COSTIS HATZIOANNOU.
Costis was born in Halkida, Greece , where his parents settled, having , unfortunately, been forced to leave E.Turkey in 1922.
In his youth a deep love of the sea was, to a great extent, due to the influence of his grandfather’s stories of his life as sea captain and shipowner. As a result, he became a Merchant Marine Captain, traveling the world.
His love for painting was initiated by his artistic mother who sent him from an early age to study under Angelos Kalogiannis, a Halkidian artist and painter.
Over the years he was involved in many group Exhibitions until in 1997 he decided to “drop anchor” on Skiathos Island, where he opened the Art Gallery “Dimiourgies” (Creations) enabling him to exhibit his paintings as well as the creative works in various mediums of other Greek artists.
As he says , his daily contact with the beauty of nature of Skiathos has helped him to express his inner most emotions on canvas.
He is a member of the Club for UNESCO of Art,Literature and Science of Greece
Costis takes inspiration from his immediate surroundings. With his exceptional skill – his clear mastery of technique, composition and use of colour - he captures the very essence of Skiathos with a faultless, almost ‘photographic’ accuracy yet his work is always cleverly tempered by a touches of the unexpected and very often, evidence of his keen sense of humour! He is a prolific painter and his wonderful work reflects and records all aspects of life on this beautiful island, be it in his breathtaking landscapes and seascapes:
‘Skiathos – Plakes ‘ © Costis Hatzi0annou
‘Calm-in-Xanemo’ © Costis Hatzi0annou
His handling of intricate architectural detail in the old town:
‘Blue-door-open ‘ © Costis Hatzioannou
‘Door’ © Costis Hatziannou
His originality of subject matter, mastery of shadows and application of texture:
‘Wild Flowers’ © Costis Hatzioannou
‘Wall Ornaments’ © Costis Hatziannou
Or in the brilliant colours of the fishing caiques in calm waters:
‘Gathering’ © Costis Hatzi0annou
And portrayal of islanders going about their daily life:
‘Bus Stop’ © Costis Hatzioannou
All the works shown here are currently for sale. You can contact Costis directly at:
Phones:24270-24243/ Mob: 6946441801 www.dimiourgies-skiathos.gr Email: khatzioannou@hotmail.com
You can see more of Costis’ work by visiting the website of his beautiful ART GALLERY ‘DIMIOURGIES’ (CREATIONS):
if you have the opportunity to visit his gallery in Skiathos town yourself, invariably you will find Costis himself, at his easel quietly working on his latest masterpiece. He genuinely welcomes visitors and the opportunity to discuss not only his own work but that of all the other fine artists he represents and whose work also adorns his walls. Not only is he an outstanding artist, but he’s one of the most charming, quiet-spoken, self-effacing men I have ever had the good fortune to know!
Wandering around the old town this morning, I turned into a narrow alley behind the main church (Treis Hierarches) and came across yet another wonderful shop, ‘The Beauty of the Sea’:
Given Skiathos’ centuries-long association with the sea, its glorious ship-building past, its generations of merchant sailors and its fishermen, whose reliance on the watery underworld for much of the islanders sustenance, still continues today, its only fitting that there should be a shop celebrating all things to do with marine life. This one is a veritable treasure chest of all things exotic and unique, with fine examples of plant and animal marine-life from the Deep;
There are natural brown (‘Kalymnos’) sponges (including some extremely rare and highly-prized specimens):
Delicate lace-like corals:
and amazing shells of every size, colour and description, from huge conch shells, sea urchins and barnacles (whose shape and colours remind me of large tulips!) to the daintiest star fish, all found by divers in waters not only Greek but from as far and wide as Australia, Thailand, Africa, the Caribbean and the Pacific Ocean.
Everything is beautifully displayed in a calm, nautical and totally natural setting; driftwood shelves and mirrors line the pale turquoise walls and fishing baskets and lobster-pots, brimming with interesting and exciting finds, rest on the white lime-washed floorboards. Alongside thoughtfully-placed marine objects such as wooden boats, fishing nets, ships wheels, sepia photographs, old sailors postcards and traditional sea captains chests:
more unusual examples of the perils of the deep can be found, such as this highly poisonous (not alive, thankfully, but ‘preserved’) ‘Blow’ or ‘Puffer’ fish:
And a more familiar predator (though equally dangerous in it’s natural habitat) a preserved shark:
This beautiful collection is the work of the lovely Lorna (see below) and her partner.
Please visit their website: ‘www.thebeautyofthesea.com‘ to find out more about them, their work and the exact location of their wonderful shop – it’s well worth a visit – and to discover the origins and rarity of the many unique treasures they have on display and if you’re looking for a more ‘useful’ souvenir what better to grace a bathroom back home than a natural sponge, loofah, pummice stone or exotic shell, to remind you of a wonderful beach holiday on a Greek island in the sun?
Two new and exciting exhibitions opened at the Archipelagos Gallery in Skiathos Town last week.
The first, on the ground floor, shows the latest work of talented, young, jewellery designer, Hellen Papachristou, from Volos, mainland Greece:
Hellen (often mistaken for ‘Sex and the City’s’ ‘Carrie!) displays her original designs and fine workmanship,
using precious metals such as gold, silver, platinum and even burnished titanium!
(N.B. All photos © Yvonne Ayoub. All designs © Hellen Papachristou)
On the upper floor of the gallery, the work of Greek/American artist Pantelis Dimitriou is on display
Pantelis is an accomplished artist/portrait painter who, at his Athens studio, works in a variety of media but this his latest collection is compiled from a series of his black and white, politically and socially radical and satirical drawings. Skillfully executed, the drawings are full of minute detail and, despite at first glance, their cartoon-like, comedic appearance they carry thought-provoking, conscience-pricking and powerful messages. They require considerable time to be fully appreciated and comprise a fine body of work indeed!
This one!
A Beautiful new Beach Bar and Restaurant opened here a couple of weeks ago and it has raised the bar for the rest of the island’s waterside venues. Situated at the fabulous white sandy ‘Ambelakia’ beach, at the far eastern end of Skiathos (under the old and now abandoned Xenia Hotel) it is the last word in chic. Set amid lawns and gardens it is a perfect oasis, beautifully yet simply designed and to my mind its one of the most elegant places on the island.
Theres a lounge/bar area and a separate restaurant where the service is impeccable and the food deliciously healthy and impressively presented:
Watermelon & Feta cheese platter with rocket, sun-dried tomatoes, walnuts and tiny raisins in a balsamic dressing
Spaghetti with (huge!) Prawns
and despite oozing with fine quality fixtures and understated style,
The prices are surprisingly reasonable too! Between the two areas, there’s a resident DJ playing cool (and not overpowering, for once!) music and the washroom facilities, set well back in a separate brick-built building, are arguably the best to be found on any of Skiathos’ many beaches.
It’s quite a steep descent from the road down the wide decked steps so arriving by sea (and to avoid an uphill climb at the end of the day) is probably the ideal way to visit, but, if you’re looking for somewhere to totally chill out at the water’s edge, a visit either way is an absolute must!
Well! As the saying goes, you really DO have to watch out for what you wish for!
If you’ve read my last post you’ll know what a significant part water plays in life on this island and while most of us have been praying for rain throughout this long dry spell, I don’t think anyone expected our prayers to be answered so unexpectedly and in quite such dramatic way as last Saturday evening! As I climbed up onto the Bourtzi for my final shift at the art exhibition, I couldn’t help but notice how dark the sky had become as ominous looking clouds suddenly gathered and dominated the sky.
Not unduly worried, I turned my back on the bronzed holiday makers sipping their ‘Happy Hour’ cocktails in the cafes and bars along on the old port below and proceeded to open up for the evening. No sooner was the key in the door than all hell broke loose! Out of nowhere, gale force winds, driving horizontal rain and hail stones the size of golf-balls literally knocked me sideways! I managed (just!) to enter the building but suddenly, in securing the door behind me, all 8 of the 20′ high windows blew open, inwards, at once! Furniture was sent flying across the room, papers, wet now and soggy, as well as paintings were hurled high into the air though thankfully they remained attached, by wires, to their stands so no permanent damage was done (Thank Goodness!) but for 10 minutes or so as the freak storm – the likes of which I’ve never experienced in my life, let alone on Skiathos! - raged about, they circled in the air battered by the driving rain, hail and swirling pine needles (from the nearby over-hanging and very tall (Koukounaries) pine trees, which were by now being forced almost totally horizontal and practically stripped bare! The Paralia could no longer be seen at all – a solid white sheet of water obscured it from view:
Some youngsters who’d been playing outside and got caught unawares, sought shelter with me and what a sorry sight! They burst in completely drenched to the bone, eyes wide with sheer terror! To calm them down and distract them I set them to work (glad of both the company – I was pretty terrified myself - and the extra hands!). Between us we managed to secure the windows shut and then tried to restore some order as the building continued to be lit up by lightening flashes and battered and bruised relentlessly on all sides, for the next 10 – 15 minutes:
Then as quickly as it had arrived, the storm passed over and left us in a dazed silence facing the devastating havoc it had wreaked in it’s wake. As the port became visible so too in the aftermath, did the damage. Awnings were flapping about wildly and umbrellas had been turned inside-out, ripped and uprooted from their stands by the unprecedented violent gusts of wind. The suddenly abandoned tables and chairs, had been scattered in every direction, and everywhere soaked-through tourists and Skiathites alike were desperately trying to harness the boats dislodged from their moorings, that were bobbing about aimlessly, on the angry swelling sea. It was pandemonium! The next two hours were spent wading through and sweeping-up pine needles 10″ deep and mopping up the gallons of muddy water that had all but flooded the Boutzi inside and out.
Several hours later, with order resumed and the evening concluded, over a much-needed drink the stories of disaster were shared; Papadiamantis Street was described as having been transformed into a torrential river; sadly an elaborate wedding feast (planned for that evening at the Evangelistria Monastery, following the marriage of the daughter of a hugely influential Greek shipping magnate) had been a complete wash-out right down to the last tea-light blown from the trees while the luxury yachts of the wedding party and guests had sought safe anchorage in a nearby harbour. And, I learned after all that, not a single drop of rain had fallen east of Skiathos town – my garden remains as parched (although windblown) as the rest of the island that had somehow, miraculously escaped unscathed.
Since that night the island has been battered by high winds, night and day. I hate the wind – I’ve always found it so unsettling. Sweeping has become a national pastime (though it’s amazing there are any leaves left on the trees to sweep up!). What an experience! One I certainly hope I’ll never get to witness for many years to come!
A strange thing to say, you may think, given that I am living on a lush green island after all. But how many of us take that precious commodity for granted? I know when I’m in London, if I need water I just turn on the tap without giving it a second thought. It’s there ‘on tap’ quite literally 24/7. I’ve certainly never (I’m ashamed to admit) realised how fortunate I am or even considered where it comes from, where it goes or even if it’s safe to drink (because I know it is). It’s just there….
It’s only when there suddenly isn’t any that it becomes an issue and, as the following statistics (© World Bank) show, water isn’t just there, for a huge proportion of those whom we share this planet with.
You may be as surprised as I was learning some of these facts:
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It’s important to keep everything in perspective of course. Compared to what’s happening in some totally devastated areas of the world, such as:
Kenya: (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AF5iLICrTK4)
China: (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1o9QUMMFBg) and
Australia: (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8R7WxjlLF8)
the ‘drought’ in Skiathos barely warrants a mention:
But as I am writing about this island, I thought you may also be interested to know how the global shortage is having an effect (albeit minor by comparison!) on this little corner of Greece too.
Both in and out of town, most people rely on natural spring outlets or they have taken a license and drilled bole holes on their property to reach deep underground springs… Alternatively, as in my case and that of many of the older villas here, some rely primarily on rain water, collected (usually from flat roofs and terraces) and stored in a holding tank (a ’sterna’) from where it is then pumped up to a water tank, for daily household use.
Last year Skiathos, like much of the rest of Europe, suffered a severe drought. There simply wasn’t sufficient rainfall to replenish the natural springs above or deep below ground or to fill the sternas and, worryingly, highly toxic deposits such as mercury began to leach out of the earth into the island’s rapidly decreasing water supply. A complete ban on using spring water was imposed for a time and the supermarkets supplying mineral water in plastic bottles could barely cope with the extra demand by both humans and for livestock. Of course the plants suffered too and by July even the lush natural forests and verdant meadows of the island had lost their customary ‘greenness’ and began to turn brown.
Thankfully this past winter there has been plenty of rain, spring water has been given the all-clear (a meeting, chaired by the Mayor was held on the Bourtzi last Sunday to confirm it) and everyone is more or less back to ‘normal’ – everyone except me that is!
Now natural Skiathos spring water is heavy in iron anyway but both my bore holes were producing nothing but a bright red sludge. It became impossible to use – whites turned bright orange in the washing machine and sanitary ware became stained too. I say ‘both’ but only one bore-hole was semi use-able anyway. One well had been drilled too deep, below the water table (and had only ever produced salt (sea) water!) so we’d invested in a costly filtration system but even that eventually couldn’t cope with the demands placed on it, and the other well had virtually run dry. With our sterna water all but used-up too, we were becoming desperate, The garden was dying around us, (and not the most vital of issues, I know, but the new pool was a permanent shade of green/black) and I couldn’t even wash a dish (let alone myself ) and feel clean! (several people had commented on my ‘golden tan’ – little did they know!)
So last week our dear electrician friend Costas (Zembekis) took apart the whole system. He raised the pump in the salty well, lowered the one in the original well and Hey Presto! Clean, sweet water gushed forth from both! I feel re-born! Most evening are now spent watering the garden profusely and the grateful plants are already responding well…and bursting into fragrant bloom! (and I’m feeling pretty fragrant myself again too!!)
I learned just today that a new and very substantial water source has been located on the island and, with the large financial investment required (yet another drain on the already severely limited Municipal funds) successfully secured, work will begin to contain and store it in the coming months. So it looks as though Skiathos will be able to enjoy plenty of good, clean water for the foreseeable future….and with rain forecast for this coming weekend you may think we can now sit back and relax – but NO! we must ALL think again - where-ever we are in the world. If we are one of the fortunate few to have ready access to a clean water supply it’s time to use it sparingly and responsibly. Remembering that old adage ‘Waste Not – Want Not’ - has never been more vitally important than now
Water shortage and conservation is a serious global problem. Would you like to help?
DO YOU TWITTER? Why not get involved with the next Twestival ( find out more, locate your city and you can donate directly).
On 12 February 2009, 200+ international cities hosted a Twestival (Twitter + festival) to bring Twitter communities together to raise money for charity: water. The Twestival raised $250,000+ and brought worldwide public awareness to the global water crisis. On 11 April charity: water will drill the first Twestival well, posting videos of the progress.
Here are some excellent sites for further reading:
Hawaii – view some of the 3500 poster and over 200 poems that were entered in the Water Conservation Week 2009 competition
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW5eBfZhE4M
On a final note, I’ll leave you with ‘Drought’ by Vienna Teng, a remarkable song by a brilliant singer and composer:
What a busy time!
Well it’s official, the summer season has definitely begun in earnest and with soaring temperatures and suffocating humidity you’d be forgiven for thinking this was August and not just the start of July. Having spent a comparatively ‘quiet’ few weeks in the gallery (alongside the shop-keepers who were beginning to despair at the lack of trade) I’m pleased to be able to report that Skiathos has suddenly sprung into action. Plane and boat loads of tourists arrive daily now:
cafe’s and tavernas are buzzing and buses are full to capacity once more, returning sun-worshippers in varying degrees of pink, back to their resorts at sunset for a quick siesta, shower and sprucing-up, before they cram temselves back into the buses and taxis, for nights on the town, which is now, thankfully, in full swing!
Skiathos’ summer cultural programme opened this weekend, with the 15th Annual Choir Festival held, as in previous years, in the open air theatre, on the Bourtzi. Organised by the Cultural Organisation of the Municipality of Skiathos, once again a wonderful ensemble, made up of choirs and musicians invited from Tirnavou and Nikaias (on mainland Greece) and our very own Skiathos Municipal Choir, (directed by Mr Arvanitis) entertained us with magical evenings filled with traditional and contemporary Greek music and song. Among much notable talent among the chorus, musicians and soloists, the highlight of the festival for me, was the appearance (and impromptu performance) of one of Greece’s most highly regarded composer/songwriters, Elias Andriopoulos. Several of his well-known (and clearly much-loved) compositions had been sung by the choirs throughtout the evening but when the man himself took to the stage, sat down at the piano and began to play and sing , an awed hush descended on an enraptured audience.
Its at time like this that I despair over my lack of command of the Greek language. Much to my dismay (and embarrassment) I was only too aware of how much I was missing of the poetry of his lyrics but, in the words of my friend, Vassili Korallis
(a member of the Skiathos choir who thankfully was permitted to give an introduction in English – well, on the first night at least - which did much to make the non Greek-speaking tourists feel equally welcomed and included):
“…..Music brings us memories,
Music binds us together,
Music communicates our general feelings to each other
Truly, the language of music is universal”
and I couldn’t have agreed more!
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This has been a time of mixed emotions. Earlier this week, I gathered, along with a few old friends, at the peaceful cemetery at the top of the old town (the Acropolis) to say goodbye, pay respects and finally lay to rest my dear friend and neighbour of the last 30 years, Richard Romyn.
Sadly he died from a short illness while indergoing hospital treatment back in England in April. He was 81. His daughter Ann and son Nick returned with his ashes this week, to re-unite him with his wife Elizabeth, who died 2 years ago and is buried in Skiathos.
As almost the last of the original ex pats who built homes and settled on Skiathos in the 1950’s and early 1960’s they were a long familiar sight on the island and as such, had many a story to entertain us with, about how the island was in they ‘old days’ before mass tourism changed forever this Greek idyll.
R.I.P our dear friends. Together again, but you are sorely missed.
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Monday night saw the opening of another grand cultural event: ‘Sporades Emerald’, an Art Exhibition organised by artist Maria Kalatzi, and sponsored by the Infinity Blue Restaurant, on behalf of Club UNESCO for Art Literature and Science of Greece.
New works, incuding paintings, mosaics, sculpture and pottery, by several UNESCO artist/members (including yours truly) from all the Sporades islands, were placed on display inside the Bourtzi, following another spectacular evening’s entertainment. This included a poetry recital by guests of honour Mrs Stella Leontiadou, and the winner of Greece’s much-coveted ‘Artist of the Year Award”; Mrs Maro Voudouroglou-Vlachakis, from Skopelos, reading from her latest collection of poems. This was interspersed with piano recitals by the very young and extremely talented Miss Marianna Riganas & the supremely accomplished pianist Mr Themis Simboulidis, both of whom delighted us with a wonderful programme of classical music.
To sit in the open air, on a warm summer’s night, under a canopy of a sky glistening with a million stars, against a backdrop of the twinkling lights of Skiathos town reflected in the gently lapping waters of the Aegean in the harbour below….and all the while listening to Chopin and Delibes….well, I tell you, it doesn’t get much better than that!
After the ensuing speeches and the presentation of bouquets to the guests and certificates (to the artists) a wonderful buffet was served and the exhibition was formally declared open.
The ‘Sporades Emerald’ Exhibition will continue to run for the next two weeks, until July 13th and, as with all the events held on the Bourtzi under the auspices of the Mayor, Mr Nikolas, Plomaritis and the Municipality of Skiathos, it is open to everyone and entrance is free.
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And after all the high-brow, allow me to bring you down to earth for a moment. Today, I’m celebrating; I can now proudly announce that
“THE KITCHEN AT VILLA NICARA HAS FINALLY (yes, finally!) GOT A KITCHEN SINK!”
Regular visitors to the villa, who’ve been party to this 18-month-long drawn-out ridiculous saga, will know exactly why I’m so excited and will understand completely why today is such a cause for celebration. A beautiful white marble sink now sits proudly (and fits exactly) where there has been a gap for SO long.
The sink is IN, the plumbing is IN…..and now….
Ah yes…..well now………..there does remain just one small matter ……taps
Taps?
No taps
NO TAPS?!!
Oh well (sigh) at least the sink’s in….
And so, the saga continues……….
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Finally let me introduce you to my new companion at the villa:
I spotted him grubbing about in the garden and he’s become quite friendly, accepting both my presence, as I potter about, and occasional tidbits, even allowing the odd photo-shoot unperturbed. In early evening he can be seen making his way (rather rapidly!) across the olive grove to visit my neighbour, Stellios, at the Marina apartments where I’ve come to learn he dines regularly on a meal of bread and pieces of meat.
But in the morning he’s back again, curled up and asleep, under his favourite bush.
I’ve called him Charambalos, pronounced (think Tom Conti in Shirley Valentine) Harabalos
Yes, “Harabalos the Hedgehog” has quite a nice (Greek) ring to it, dont you think?
(a video of Mary Dillon’s work will be here soon!)
There are few ORIGINAL PAINTINGS still available, so if anyone interested, please drop me a line.
PRINTS (framed or unframed), CANVAS PRINTS and now
*NEW! GREETINGS CARDS of all the images are available through Fine Art America
(or contact me directly)
But it’s not over quite yet!
The exhibition will continue to run for one more week – until June 24th.
Earlier this week, as I was walking along the ‘paralia’ in the Porto Limani (old port):
I approached the ‘St. Nicholas’, one of the larger tourist boats moored alongside, to find an excited crowd had gathered. It’s owner, Mr Kyriakos (the father of the Mayor) along with its crew, family and friends were awaiting the arrival of the local priest. When he eventually arrived, I was invited to join them all on board for a charming, long-held tradition: the annual ‘Blessing of the Boat’ .
Unlike our St Nick or ‘Santa’, St Nicholas (the boat’s namesake) is, in Greece, the Patron Saint of Sailors and the Sea.
At the start of each new season, the Saint is called upon, in a short service of devotion, to extend his protection and afford prosperity to the vessel and all who take to the sea in her; Captain, crew and tourist alike, in the months ahead.
Similar events been taking place in all the boats moored alongside the port this week.
The short ceremony, composed of chanting, prayer and much kissing of icons, all administered by the local priest in a cloud of burning incense, is followed by the handing out of refreshments including delicious sweets, symbolizing (hopefully) prosperous times ahead. Then, as is typical following all such religious rites, a party ensues – always great fun - and this one was no exception!
I’ve come to know the crew of the St. Nicholas well as this is the boat I take my ‘Painting Skiathos’ guests on when we make our day-trip excusion across to the neighbouring Sporades islands of to Skopelos and Alonnissos/ It is always the highlight of our painting week. Relaxed and helpful ( informing us in plenty of time to have our cameras ready when the dophins appear as we enter the protected waters of the Wildlife Marine Park around Alonnissos, they are all wonderfully generous and entertaining hosts. As ex-Merchant Navy sailors all, they keep us endlessly amused with their cheerful camaraderie and fascinating tales of the sea.
I wish them all a happy, safe and successful summer.
A few posts back (“Out with the Old, in with the Miu”) I mentioned that young, trendy and very stylish cafés and shops are beginning to appear all over Skiathos town, alongside the more traditional tavernas and souvenir/gift shops. Well today, I came across another little gem. Tucked away in a tiny alley (beside the Town hall), ‘Mikrokosmos’ (literally translated, it means ‘little People’) is the cutest little shop selling unique and mostly hand crafted items.
Despite its name, there is something for everyone here; scarves, hand-made crafts of all shapes and sizes, unique items of jewelery, accessories, ornaments and all manner of objets d’Art. The eye-catching, pretty exterior:
is matched with an exciting, jam-packed interior, where everything is beautifully displayed:
It is vibrant and colourful just like its young owner, Alexandra, who makes and sells gifts to suit every taste and pocket.
Of course there are plenty of gift ideas for ‘little people’ too – its a veritable Aladdin’s cave – and its SO pretty! -
and while Alexandra did her best to convince me she isn’t an artist ‘because she ‘doesn’t paint’ (though she’s keen to attend my art classes) it’s clear she is naturally highly creative……..
….and definitely has an artist’s ‘eye’.
In these turbulent economic times, people are returning to simpler pleasures and ‘handicrafts’ are suddenly enjoying a huge revival. This little shop should do very well.
I wish Alexandra every success!
I know I risk becoming boringly repetitive - but the fact is that even after 30 years of coming to Skiathos (somewhere so small, relatively, that I feel there can’t be anything left to discover) I’m continually amazed how it still manages to hold surprises up its sleeve for me!
This week I visited a dear friend (and very talented artist), Sam, who, along with her Greek husband, Philippas, has built a beautiful home in an area just on the outskirts of the town, that I’m not at all familiar with. I admired the spectacular views over the rooftops, towards Skopelos way in the distance, from her beautiful garden and saw a whole new perspective of the town I thought I knew so well.
“If you like this, come with me” Sam said mysteriously and lead me outside where she promptly mounted her motorbike and told me to hop on behind. (Motor bike? Me?!! Er….) Before I had time to think better of it, we were off, bouncing along and climbing up through the narrow cobbled streets.
As experiences go, this one was untried territory for me but, feeling all of twenty-one again with the wind in my hair, was completely exhilarating all the same – until, that is, we began to climb a very narrow and VERY steep lane (we were almost completely vertical!). But before I could complain Sam had already stopped, parked-up and announced that we’d have to continue the rest of the climb on foot.
“Where are we going?” I gasped, breathless already (remember? steep climbs and I don’t like each other very much!)
“You’ll see…..It’ll be worth it” was all I could hear through the blood pounding in my ears…
Sam briskly strode on ahead up the steps …..and I, rather more slowly, brought up the rear:
“Here we are, Aghios Fanourios. My local church” Sam announced proudly.
And rightly so – it was indeed beautiful. SO beautiful that I can’t believe I never even knew of it’s existence!
Standing sentinel at the highest point of the town, and guarded by ancient olive trees, its view, of almost 180 degrees, is breathtaking:
Outside, the traditional stone barbeque area (where everyone gathers to roast a lamb and celebrate on the Saint’s day)
is immaculately kept by the keeper who lives in a tiny stone cottage (kalivi) nearby:
Inside, the church is painted in a soft turquoise colour throughout giving it an air of century-old, quiet serenity
It was magical standing in the silent stillness watching the rays from the late afternoon sun filter through the tall windows, fall across the mosaic floor and illuminate the dim, candle lit interior.
Typical of so many Greek island churches, the simple rustic exterior,
gives little clue to the opulence that lies within; every surface adorned with gilded and silver religious artifacts, icons and three magnificent bohemian crystal chandeliers hang from it’s high vaulted celing.
The shimmering sea and islands beyond, can be seen through the striking stained glass windows:
We lit our candles, each lost in a moment of quiet prayer and then returned to the sunlight where we sat for a while, watching the town far below as the island ferry arrived in the port, way off in the distance - Eventually we headed back for a very English tea of home-made scones, whipped cream and strawberry jam (yet another lovely surprise – Thank you Sam!)
