Update!
PHOTO & VIDEO LINKS (new!) added to 'EXHIBITION NEWS' (see above and in sidebar)What a busy time!
Well it’s official, the summer season has definitely begun in earnest and with soaring temperatures and suffocating humidity you’d be forgiven for thinking this was August and not just the start of July. Having spent a comparatively ‘quiet’ few weeks in the gallery (alongside the shop-keepers who were beginning to despair at the lack of trade) I’m pleased to be able to report that Skiathos has suddenly sprung into action. Plane and boat loads of tourists arrive daily now:
cafe’s and tavernas are buzzing and buses are full to capacity once more, returning sun-worshippers in varying degrees of pink, back to their resorts at sunset for a quick siesta, shower and sprucing-up, before they cram temselves back into the buses and taxis, for nights on the town, which is now, thankfully, in full swing!
Skiathos’ summer cultural programme opened this weekend, with the 15th Annual Choir Festival held, as in previous years, in the open air theatre, on the Bourtzi. Organised by the Cultural Organisation of the Municipality of Skiathos, once again a wonderful ensemble, made up of choirs and musicians invited from Tirnavou and Nikaias (on mainland Greece) and our very own Skiathos Municipal Choir, (directed by Mr Arvanitis) entertained us with magical evenings filled with traditional and contemporary Greek music and song. Among much notable talent among the chorus, musicians and soloists, the highlight of the festival for me, was the appearance (and impromptu performance) of one of Greece’s most highly regarded composer/songwriters, Elias Andriopoulos. Several of his well-known (and clearly much-loved) compositions had been sung by the choirs throughtout the evening but when the man himself took to the stage, sat down at the piano and began to play and sing , an awed hush descended on an enraptured audience.
Its at time like this that I despair over my lack of command of the Greek language. Much to my dismay (and embarrassment) I was only too aware of how much I was missing of the poetry of his lyrics but, in the words of my friend, Vassili Korallis
(a member of the Skiathos choir who thankfully was permitted to give an introduction in English – well, on the first night at least - which did much to make the non Greek-speaking tourists feel equally welcomed and included):
“…..Music brings us memories,
Music binds us together,
Music communicates our general feelings to each other
Truly, the language of music is universal”
and I couldn’t have agreed more!
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This has been a time of mixed emotions. Earlier this week, I gathered, along with a few old friends, at the peaceful cemetery at the top of the old town (the Acropolis) to say goodbye, pay respects and finally lay to rest my dear friend and neighbour of the last 30 years, Richard Romyn.
Sadly he died from a short illness while indergoing hospital treatment back in England in April. He was 81. His daughter Ann and son Nick returned with his ashes this week, to re-unite him with his wife Elizabeth, who died 2 years ago and is buried in Skiathos.
As almost the last of the original ex pats who built homes and settled on Skiathos in the 1950’s and early 1960’s they were a long familiar sight on the island and as such, had many a story to entertain us with, about how the island was in they ‘old days’ before mass tourism changed forever this Greek idyll.
R.I.P our dear friends. Together again, but you are sorely missed.
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Monday night saw the opening of another grand cultural event: ‘Sporades Emerald’, an Art Exhibition organised by artist Maria Kalatzi, and sponsored by the Infinity Blue Restaurant, on behalf of Club UNESCO for Art Literature and Science of Greece.
New works, incuding paintings, mosaics, sculpture and pottery, by several UNESCO artist/members (including yours truly) from all the Sporades islands, were placed on display inside the Bourtzi, following another spectacular evening’s entertainment. This included a poetry recital by guests of honour Mrs Stella Leontiadou, and the winner of Greece’s much-coveted ‘Artist of the Year Award”; Mrs Maro Voudouroglou-Vlachakis, from Skopelos, reading from her latest collection of poems. This was interspersed with piano recitals by the very young and extremely talented Miss Marianna Riganas & the supremely accomplished pianist Mr Themis Simboulidis, both of whom delighted us with a wonderful programme of classical music.
To sit in the open air, on a warm summer’s night, under a canopy of a sky glistening with a million stars, against a backdrop of the twinkling lights of Skiathos town reflected in the gently lapping waters of the Aegean in the harbour below….and all the while listening to Chopin and Delibes….well, I tell you, it doesn’t get much better than that!
After the ensuing speeches and the presentation of bouquets to the guests and certificates (to the artists) a wonderful buffet was served and the exhibition was formally declared open.
The ‘Sporades Emerald’ Exhibition will continue to run for the next two weeks, until July 13th and, as with all the events held on the Bourtzi under the auspices of the Mayor, Mr Nikolas, Plomaritis and the Municipality of Skiathos, it is open to everyone and entrance is free.
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And after all the high-brow, allow me to bring you down to earth for a moment. Today, I’m celebrating; I can now proudly announce that
“THE KITCHEN AT VILLA NICARA HAS FINALLY (yes, finally!) GOT A KITCHEN SINK!”
Regular visitors to the villa, who’ve been party to this 18-month-long drawn-out ridiculous saga, will know exactly why I’m so excited and will understand completely why today is such a cause for celebration. A beautiful white marble sink now sits proudly (and fits exactly) where there has been a gap for SO long.
The sink is IN, the plumbing is IN…..and now….
Ah yes…..well now………..there does remain just one small matter ……taps
Taps?
No taps
NO TAPS?!!
Oh well (sigh) at least the sink’s in….
And so, the saga continues……….
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Finally let me introduce you to my new companion at the villa:
I spotted him grubbing about in the garden and he’s become quite friendly, accepting both my presence, as I potter about, and occasional tidbits, even allowing the odd photo-shoot unperturbed. In early evening he can be seen making his way (rather rapidly!) across the olive grove to visit my neighbour, Stellios, at the Marina apartments where I’ve come to learn he dines regularly on a meal of bread and pieces of meat.
But in the morning he’s back again, curled up and asleep, under his favourite bush.
I’ve called him Charambalos, pronounced (think Tom Conti in Shirley Valentine) Harabalos
Yes, “Harabalos the Hedgehog” has quite a nice (Greek) ring to it, dont you think?
(a video of Mary Dillon’s work will be here soon!)
There are few ORIGINAL PAINTINGS still available, so if anyone interested, please drop me a line.
PRINTS (framed or unframed), CANVAS PRINTS and now
*NEW! GREETINGS CARDS of all the images are available through Fine Art America
(or contact me directly)
But it’s not over quite yet!
The exhibition will continue to run for one more week – until June 24th.
Earlier this week, as I was walking along the ‘paralia’ in the Porto Limani (old port):
I approached the ‘St. Nicholas’, one of the larger tourist boats moored alongside, to find an excited crowd had gathered. It’s owner, Mr Kyriakos (the father of the Mayor) along with its crew, family and friends were awaiting the arrival of the local priest. When he eventually arrived, I was invited to join them all on board for a charming, long-held tradition: the annual ‘Blessing of the Boat’ .
Unlike our St Nick or ‘Santa’, St Nicholas (the boat’s namesake) is, in Greece, the Patron Saint of Sailors and the Sea.
At the start of each new season, the Saint is called upon, in a short service of devotion, to extend his protection and afford prosperity to the vessel and all who take to the sea in her; Captain, crew and tourist alike, in the months ahead.
Similar events been taking place in all the boats moored alongside the port this week.
The short ceremony, composed of chanting, prayer and much kissing of icons, all administered by the local priest in a cloud of burning incense, is followed by the handing out of refreshments including delicious sweets, symbolizing (hopefully) prosperous times ahead. Then, as is typical following all such religious rites, a party ensues – always great fun - and this one was no exception!
I’ve come to know the crew of the St. Nicholas well as this is the boat I take my ‘Painting Skiathos’ guests on when we make our day-trip excusion across to the neighbouring Sporades islands of to Skopelos and Alonnissos/ It is always the highlight of our painting week. Relaxed and helpful ( informing us in plenty of time to have our cameras ready when the dophins appear as we enter the protected waters of the Wildlife Marine Park around Alonnissos, they are all wonderfully generous and entertaining hosts. As ex-Merchant Navy sailors all, they keep us endlessly amused with their cheerful camaraderie and fascinating tales of the sea.
I wish them all a happy, safe and successful summer.
A few posts back (”Out with the Old, in with the Miu”) I mentioned that young, trendy and very stylish cafés and shops are beginning to appear all over Skiathos town, alongside the more traditional tavernas and souvenir/gift shops. Well today, I came across another little gem. Tucked away in a tiny alley (beside the Town hall), ‘Mikrokosmos’ (literally translated, it means ‘little People’) is the cutest little shop selling unique and mostly hand crafted items.
Despite its name, there is something for everyone here; scarves, hand-made crafts of all shapes and sizes, unique items of jewelery, accessories, ornaments and all manner of objets d’Art. The eye-catching, pretty exterior:
is matched with an exciting, jam-packed interior, where everthing is beautifully displayed:
It is vibrant and colourful just like its young owner, Alexandra, who makes and sells gifts to suit every taste and pocket.
Of course there are plenty of gift ideas for ‘little people’ too – its a veritable Alladin’s cave – and its SO pretty! -
and while Alexandra did her best to convince me she isn’t an artist ‘because she ‘doesn’t paint’ (though she’s keen to attend my art classes) it’s clear she is naturally highly creative……..
….and definitely has an artist’s ‘eye’.
In these turbulent economic times, people are returning to simpler pleasures and ‘handicrafts’ are suddenly enjoying a huge revival. This little shop should do very well.
I wish Alexandra every success!
I know I risk becoming boringly repetitive - but the fact is that even after 30 years of coming to Skiathos (somewhere so small, relatively, that I feel there can’t be anything left to discover) I’m continually amazed how it still manages to hold surprises up its sleeve for me!
This week I visited a dear friend (and very talented artist), Sam, who, along with her Greek husband, Philippas, has built a beautiful home in an area just on the outskirts of the town, that I’m not at all familiar with. I admired the spectacular views over the rooftops, towards Skopelos way in the distance, from her beautiful garden and saw a whole new perspective of the town I thought I knew so well.
“If you like this, come with me” Sam said mysteriously and lead me outside where she promptly mounted her motorbike and told me to hop on behind. (Motor bike? Me?!! Er….) Before I had time to think better of it, we were off, bouncing along and climbing up through the narrow cobbled streets.
As experiences go, this one was untried territory for me but, feeling all of twenty-one again with the wind in my hair, was completely exhilarating all the same – until, that is, we began to climb a very narrow and VERY steep lane (we were almost completely vertical!). But before I could complain Sam had already stopped, parked-up and announced that we’d have to continue the rest of the climb on foot.
“Where are we going?” I gasped, breathless already (remember? steep climbs and I don’t like each other very much!)
“You’ll see…..It’ll be worth it” was all I could hear through the blood pounding in my ears…
Sam briskly strode on ahead up the steps …..and I, rather more slowly, brought up the rear:
“Here we are, Aghios Fanourios. My local church” Sam announced proudly.
And rightly so – it was indeed beautiful. SO beautiful that I can’t believe I never even knew of it’s existence!
Standing sentinel at the highest point of the town, and guarded by ancient olive trees, its view, of almost 180 degrees, is breathtaking:
Outside, the traditional stone barbeque area (where everyone gathers to roast a lamb and celebrate on the Saint’s day)
is immaculately kept by the keeper who lives in a tiny stone cottage (kalivi) nearby:
Inside, the church is painted in a soft turquoise colour throughout giving it an air of century-old, quiet serenity
It was magical standing in the silent stillness watching the rays from the late afternoon sun filter through the tall windows, fall across the mosaic floor and illuminate the dim, candle lit interior.
Typical of so many Greek island churches, the simple rustic exterior,
gives little clue to the opulence that lies within; every surface adorned with gilded and silver religious artifacts, icons and three magnificent bohemian crystal chandeliers hang from it’s high vaulted celing.
The shimmering sea and islands beyond, can be seen through the striking stained glass windows:
We lit our candles, each lost in a moment of quiet prayer and then returned to the sunlight where we sat for a while, watching the town far below as the island ferry arrived in the port, way off in the distance - Eventually we headed back for a very English tea of home-made scones, whipped cream and strawberry jam (yet another lovely surprise – Thank you Sam!)
There are many animal lovers here on Skiathos. Most people I know regularly feed between 15 and 20 stray cats and dogs in addition to their own beloved family pets - conventional pets ,that is, such as cats and dogs and, occasionally, a horse or two. Some keep something a bit more exotic (such as parrot or turtle) and there’s my friend George with his beloved ‘Luxandra’, the donkey (remember her?) who now regularly appears at weddings sporting a beautifully carved and brightly painted, wooden saddle embellished with tooled leather, that George has had specially made for such occasions.
I thought nothing could surprise me until I met up with a couple of friends this afternoon. A very excited and proud Graham arrived with the latest addition to their menagerie trotting at his heels; a young GOAT, complete with collar and lead!
“Let me introduce you” he said, “This is Billy….. Billy the Kid” (of course, what else?)
‘Absolutely nothing to do with me!’ Lynne, his wife, was quick to point out, rolling her eyes and clearly thinking her husband had finally flipped.
Turns out ‘Billy’ was purchased after a particularly heavy night on the tiles and when Graham awoke the next morning to find Billy curled up beside him, he could offer no explanation as to how he got there - but he and his goat have been inseparable ever since!
Its easy to see why. Billy is the gentlest, quietest and most loyal of creatures and very affectionate. Within moments of my stroking his soft silky coat with his head cupped in my hand, he’d fallen fast asleep!
The fact that goats are easy to keep – they eat virtually anything – and that Graham no longer has to be reminded to ‘take out the rubbish’ or ‘cut the grass’ (they have a very large and steep tract of land to keep under control) may also have something to do with it!
Billy is a perfect pet; undemanding, entertaining, inexpensive to keep and very loving…… and in these ‘ecologically-aware’ times, extremely useful too – a one man recycling unit…..
I want one!
This week the painting courses resumed, beginning with Mary Dillon’s popular water colour master classes.
Mary, Gill and Lida
Under Mary’s watchful eye and her expert guidance, we learned how to employ her unique and very expressive style. Encouraged to pick her trademark subjects (flowers and fruit) from around the garden we returned with them to the studio…….
to concentrate on ‘capturing their essence’ by painting them using her very ‘loose and free’ flowing technique.
Working at speed with Mary’s charming Irish brogue egging us on with ‘Quickly now! As quick as you can! Don’t think about it too much!’ and ‘Just FEEL your subject’ we were all inspired by her obvious passion and it was a very useful (though often frustrating excersise for slow deliberate painters such as Lida and myself!) but all part of the learning process. By the time we took a coffee break …….
we were beginning to feel suitably proud of our efforts!
On Day 3 Lida surprised us with a glorious collection of fruit gathered from her own extensive gardens, here on the island….
and the hours ran away with us as we each became totally absorbed in our ambitious attempts to capture them all in a still life painting:
(work in progress)
There was much friendly laughter, chatter and comparing of notes over lunches on the terrace, once the morning sessions were over. Now these courses have ended and Mary returns to Ireland tomorrow - but we all eagerly anticipate her return to the island for further courses next September.
Sign up in plenty of time if you’d like to join us then.
Next week the first of my own classes get underway……so watch this space and I’ll be back soon with more updates…..
A wonderful event! On Saturday evening our exhibition was opened by the Mayor of Skiathos, Mr Nikolaos Plomaritis (far right). Here’s yours truly and fellow-artist Mary Dillon (with the beautiful flowers so kindly sent by Tassos’ wife, Vivi, who was unable to attend) standing with the Mayor and Archipelagos Gallery owner, Tasson Biskinis.
The evening was a great success and well-attended by family and friends. Amongst those shown here are fellow artists Lida Baldry, Gail Stathakis and Despina Mtselou.
Visitors from the UK including the lovely Gill (R) who later joined us for a day on Mary’s wonderful water colour course at the studio.
With Mary’s beautiful, vibrant water colours of flowers and fruits of the island
and my Skiathos scenes, our work was well-received by visitors from near and far.
My big surprise? A completely unexpected visitor; my husband, Farouk!!! (far right) with friends Rita and Steve
Dimitris Moulias with Tassos (and Clair Woods seated)
With three young ‘lovelies’ all the way from the Carolinas, USA
Our heartfelt Thanks goes to all who attended and supported us and helped to make this a memorable event.
A beautiful sunny day, a beautiful happy bride arrives, stepping out of the wedding car festooned with flowers and makes her way to the quayside:
where my friend Theo awaits, onboard his fishing caique:
ready to ferry the glamorous bride and entourage of maids of honour, across the old port to the Bourtzi, where the wedding ceremony will take place
A boat full of beautiful young ladies? Theo was a very happy man that day…..
They sailed away into the blue….with the good wishes of all the waving on-lookers, standing along the paralia….
Taking a short break before preparations begin:
Mary and I arrive at the Gallery
Then its down to work: we’ve got paintings to hang!
Tassos (Gallery owner) using his expert eye
Almost set for Saturday night – Hope to see you there!
Finally, a moment to come up for air! I can’t believe it’s over a month since my last post……so sorry!I know I promised a full account of my travels to St. Catherine’s Monastery, Mount Sinai here but I’ve added it to my art blog instead – so, if you like, you can read all about it there.
With so much heavy luggage (furnishings for the new studios, art supplies, frames etc) and a sudden yearning for the open road, I decided to forgo a direct flight to Skiathos for a change and with the words of ‘Hit the Road, Jack’ ringing in my ears, drive overland to the island this time, instead.
With 200okm to cover, I was dreading the thought of such a long drive but what a fabulous (and easy!) journey it proved to be!
Completed in just 2 & 1/2 days, we had a clear run all the way without even once exceeding the speed restrictions in any of the countries we passed through Amazing scenery! Superb roads! But a word of warning, don’t be tempted to put your foot down even if there’s no other car or camera in sight; hidden computers/cameras automatically clock your time between toll gates and a posse of police will be waiting for you and will impose hefty on-the-spot fines if you speed (especially in Italy) . We arrived in record time, no worse for wear and only slightly weary – but, thankfully, safe and sound.
Day 1:
After crossing The Channel on the early morning Dover/Calais ferry (arriving at 5.30 am) we drove straight down through France and, by-passing Switzerland, slipped into Italy’s spectacular Val D’Aosta, via the Mont Blanc (Frejus) Tunnel, well before nightfall.
Day 2:
Well-rested from a good night’s sleep (at the Holiday Inn), were up at the crack of dawn once again, with just 6 hours to make our way across Italy to the port of Ancona, on the Adriatic coast, where another ferry would take us on the over-night trip to Igonoumitsa, Greece. Distracted as we were by the eerie beauty of the Northern Italian landscape at dawn; the rising sun reflected in the extensive rice fields of Vercelli, barely visible through the low-lying but quickly clearing fog…….
…..we never thought we’d make it in time – but we did – just – with hardly a moment to spare!!
A leisurely sail down the Adriatic on board the comfortable (we booked a cabin) and aptly named ‘SuperFast’ Ferry, gave us excellent food, a spectacular sunset and another sound night’s sleep:
Day 3:
Arriving at Igonoumitsa, on Greece’s west coast, once again in the early hours, left us barely 5 hours to cross the Greek mainland to reach the port of Volos in time to catch the mid-day ferry (the only one of the day bound for Skiathos). Thankfully, with the new motorway (that cuts through the mountains in a succession of tunnels providing a welcome alternative to the terrifying hair-pin bends and steep, slow climb of the old road!) now completed almost as far as Metsovo, it was not such an impossible challenge – although I would have liked more time to spend in the spectacular regions we sped through:
especially Meteora (sorry, no photos; there was no time to stop!).
Despite losing our way (twice!) thanks to the very misleading road signs around Larissa, once again we arrived on the dock in the nick of time; literally seconds before departure!
By 2.30pm, (2 & 1/2 hours later) we were sailing calmly into Skiathos’ welcoming port.
Then, within 15 minutes, we were sitting on the terrace of Villa Nicara, with a well deserved G&T in hand, counting our blessings and looking out to sea on a beautiful sunny Skiathos afternoon…….We’d made it!
Since arriving, I’ve been caught up in the frenzy of the start of the new season here on the island. With just a week to prepare for an art exhibition, I’ve thrown myself into last-minute painting and framing, adding final touches to the villa:
getting the seriously over-grown garden into shape:
cutting the 10′high grass in the olive grove, making ready the pool:
and completing almost the last of the building project; A brand new pergola to support the grape vine:
that shades the terrace outside the two new guest bedrooms, both now fully refurbished and furnished:
All this in time for the arrival of my first guest of the season; artist/tutor Mary Dillon from Ireland, who along with teaching her watercolours courses will be exhibiting with me, a collection of latest work at the Archipelagos Gallery, Skiathos Town, until mid June.
We now have a sink and running water down at the studio but I decided to put plans for its extension on hold till the autumn. I’m anxious to lay down the tools, turn off the cement mixer and just enjoy the peace and quiet (and the huge amount of work we’ve achieved so far!).
It’s time to enjoy the summer – welcome new and old friends and paint pictures – not door frames! The days are hot and sunny (30 degrees today!) and the evenings pleasantly cool ………..Ah, its SO good to be back!
So sorry not to be joining in the celebratons of this very special time on Skiathos but I’ve only just returned from Egypt, where I travelled high into the arid mountains of the Sinai Peninsula to visit the remotely-situated St. Catherine’s Greek Orthodox Monastery, the oldest church in the world with a continuous life since the 6th century.
As soon as I’ve unpacked and organised all the photos of the wonderful trip, I will share them on here and tell you all about the Monastery’s remarkable history and priceless collection of unique treasures and important icons.
In the meantime I wish all my friends on the island, and around the globe, a Very Happy Easter!
I was thrilled this morning to discover I’d received this award from a fellow artist whom I greatly admire, Sarah Lynch. These blog awards are a lovely way for artists to show their appreciation of each others work and, at the same time, bring them to the attention of their friends. In accepting, there are a few rules; I must in turn nominate seven artists (with an internet presence) whose work I admire and then list seven of my favourite things. (Only 7?!! That’s an almost impossible task for a Libran!). Well, here goes:
With so many talented artist friends it is SO hard to narrow it down but seven artists who inspire me for a variety of reasons (among them their skill, passion, originality, humour and dedication) are:
Bill Jones
Gayle Faucette Wisbon
Chrissymarie
Themah Carolle-Casey
Lutz Baar
Wadia Boutaba
Jorge Arcos
And as for seven things I like:
1) First and foremost, my family, without whose love, patience, encouragment, and unfaltering belief in me (despite being biased – they are also my greatest critics!) I would never have found the confidence and been afforded the freedom to be able to do what I do.
2) London – the wonderful city that for half of my time, continues to surprise, inspire, educate (and sometimes, exasperate!) me and perpetuates my unquenchable thirst for knowledge.
3) Greece (namely the idyllic island of Skiathos, where I spend the other half of my life) for it’s sheer natural beauty that provides a constant source of inspiration, its wonderful, welcomimg people and its rich, modern day and classical culture.
4) The Arts (especially fine art, dance, music, theatre, literature and poetry) the rich fountain from which I continue to drink deep, indulging all my passions and creativity.
5) History – for my endless love affair and appreciation for all that’s gone before….
6) Solitude – for it allows me the freedom of space and time, to focus, think, take stock, recharge, revitalise, and find the inner harmony I need to be creative.
7) Rhubarb crumble and custard
We had a glorious day today!
Perfect for downing tools and brushes, leaving the hustle and bustle behind and heading for the hills. Saturday is ‘rambling day’ when I don a pair of stout walking shoes, arm myself with no more than a bottle of water (and the all-important camera) and join a group of girlfriends (and their dogs) for a 3 – 4 hour trek into the untouched interior of the island.
I never know beforehand exactly where we’re going but aware as everyone is of my aversion to hill-climbing (would that I could!) I’m always informed well in advance if there are going to be any steep inclines, which gives me the option of opting out. Not so this morning!
“Just a gentle hill at the start, then on the flat for miles, before a steep down-hill climb at the end” chirped our leader, my dear Swiss friend, Erna.
So off we set, happily basking in the brilliant sunshine, enjoying the sights, scents and sounds of spring and chattering away with our friends.
I never considered for a moment that for there to BE a ‘steep down-hill climb at the end’, there would also have to be some sort of steep UP-hill climb at the beginning! I also never considered that to Erna, being Swiss, a ‘gentle hill’ covers just about any mountain that is only slightly less imposing than the Matterhorn!!
So as the group strode on ahead, a very weary Yvonne dragged herself up the rear, egged on by Erna’s ‘encouraging’ shouts of
“Just one more hill, Yvonne – we’re almost there!”
I swear she must have repeated that sentence at least 30 times!!
When we did finally reach what turned out to be the pinnacle of our climb ( and almost the end of the road for me!) we looked around us in awe at the beauty of the landscape that stretched below us. On one side, far across the hazy horizon beyond the glistening deep blue sea, lay Skopelos, stretched out like a lizard dozing in the midday sun
and on the other side, way below us, the tiny white houses and red roof tops of Skiathos town clustered together, twinkling like the sea in the distance.
The views were breathtaking! And as for me? Well, I’m afraid I was just completely breathless……..
But to be fair, it was the most beautiful walk I’d ever been on in Skiathos and I wouldn’t have missed it for the world.
Following narrow stream-beds and paths winding under a canopy of olive and pine. Meandering through meadows of wild flowers; pink and purple and white anemones, bright blue cornflowers, purple grape hyacinth and loose-strife, golden yellow buttercups and dandelions and brilliant red poppies ,
we finally reached the mouth of a natural spring, where, thankfully, we rested for a few moments.
(Note the hand-painted sign – these have sprung up all over the island thanks to Mr Ortwin Widman, a relatively recent and very welcome addition to the island community who, since arriving from his native Germany, has worked tirelessly at cutting through overgrown ancient pathways and marking routes for ramblers. He places them in advance of the very popular organised walks he leads all over the island, usually on a Sunday. I believe they are quite long and strenuous (although most enjoyable!) and aimed at the more serious rambler. Once my own fitness level increases (perhaps even after today!) I will be able to join him on his walks too.
I kept wishing I’d brought my paints and easel along- though I knew no painting I did could ever capture the beauty of all that surrounded us.
The heavy scent of wild sage hung in the air as we continued on through the groves of ancient gnarled olive trees, bent and twisted (them , not me!) as they clung tenaciously and almost horizontally, to the hillsides.
For hours now we’d heard nothing but the sound of bird-song occasionally breaking the stillness and saw no other signs of human life at all till we met a goatherd with his mule, leading his goats to pasture on even higher ground.
They older goats ran away at the sight of the dogs (and us!)
but the young kids, the cutest of animals, were very friendly and inquisitive; as curious about us as we were of them, although their fiercely protective mothers ensured we didn’t get too close.
Eventually we began our slow descent back towards the town. On the way, passing isolated ‘kalivis’
Open olives groves gave way to gardens with heavily-laden lemon, orange and grapefruit trees and the first signs that we were nearing the town:
We were five very dusty and weary walkers who finally arrived back at our Austrian friend Marianne’s house where, with dogs watered, shoes kicked off and after a communal collapse onto her squishy sofas (the depths of which I never imagined I would EVER be able to rise from again!) we proceeded to undo all our good work and tuck into the most amazingly delicious, gooey, home-made ‘Baileys’ cream and chocolate gateau.
“Just a little something I threw together earlier” she said…….. as (having a Viennese mother, myself, I know only too well) only an Austrian can!
Reaching home with just a few short hours to recuperate, I set off for town again. This time to join with the gathered crowds on the new port to observe the global ‘Earth Hour’ in total darkness. This was followed by a candle-lit open-air concert, organised by the International Women’s Group, complete with wine and the company of good friends. Sorry there aren’t any more photos of this important event but it was rather…em…DARK!
Then finally I headed home where at long last I could (and did!) literally drop into bed……
Ah bed…..
Glorious, glorious bed!
Skiathos has become a hive of frenzied activity! This is the time of year, after the long dark sleep of winter, when the island wakes up, stretches, yawns, shakes off the last of the lazy, leisurely days of peaceful inactivity and suddenly springs into action.
All over the island preparations are underway, making ready for the next wave of seasonal visitors who will soon be arriving by the plane and ferry load to enjoy the sun, sandy beaches, tavernas, shops, nightlife and all the wonderful things Skiathos has to offer its tourists. Newly-painted boats are coming out of dry dock and returning to the old port where fishermen have begun mending their nets:
Around the clock there’s a distinctive buzz in the air; in the more rural areas, the sound of spring is no longer synonymous with birdsong but with chain-saws, grass strimmers and cement mixers as land is cleared, meadows mowed, apartments and villas built or spruced-up and trees lopped all along the newly-widened and re-surfaced main road.
In Skiathos town itself on every street corner, all around the port and up and down Papadiamantis Street (Skiathos’ main street which is becomes pedestrian-only during the peak season, lined as it is with fashionable boutiques, café’s, bars and souvenir shops) metal shutters are being rolled up to let the light flood in along with teams of shopfitters armed with hammers, drills, ladders and paint pots.
Just about everyone one meets hurries about their business in their muddy boots and paint spattered work clothes with barely time for a hasty hello and grimy handshake let alone a leisurely coffee. With chairs stacked and cushions, newly out of storage, piled high and airing in the sunshine, there’s no chance of idling away the hours on the Paralia now!
No, everyone is busy, busy, busy! From the moment the early morning ferry steams into port and in the ensuing confusion, hustle and bustle, spills her cargo onto the quay-side, till the end of the day when the last heavily-laden transport lorries make their final delivery-runs of the day, its just go, go, go! Every day building materials, trees and pot plants for landscaping, furniture, electrical goods and hundreds of cartons of stock for the retailers and supermarkets arrive and newly-painted shelves are stacked.
The energy and excitement in the air is almost palpable and certainly infectious and as almost every shopfront and interior undergoes its annual face-lift, its an inspiring time for me as an artist too; I’m always amazed at the sheer amount of artistic talent and inventiveness there is on this tiny island and the degree of original design and thought that goes into transforming even the humblest cafe and store!
FEATURE: GALLERY MIU
One place that really caught my attention this week is a new internet/art café called ‘GALLERY MIU’ is situated on the new port side of the town. Its unique, eclectic interior is a riot of pattern, colour and such bold, innovative design one would expect to find in only the trendiest hot spot of a major European city. That its here on this relatively small and remote island is thanks to the amazing talents of its delightful proprietors, local artist Maria Skapinaki and her husband Spiros Gasteratos. They have decorated it floor to ceiling with hand made wall-papers that they designed, printed and applied themselves to every available surface. Here is a just a few examples of their work on display:
(NB All designs are © Maria Skapinaki and may not be copied or reproduced in any form without her prior permission)
Its hard to categorise the ‘look’ into any particular genre; there are obvious influences of ‘retro’, pokamon, op-art and the black and white geometric patterns that I can only liken to (with apologies!) the optical effects of a migraine yet, amazingly, the visual overload is so perfectly balanced that whole look actually WORKS! It ties together wonderfully to provide a totally unique, atmospheric and unexpectedly, relaxing space – it is truly a vision to behold.
Maria even designed the furniture herself, covering table-tops, chairs and lamps with her unique and trade-mark ‘animal print’ designs, in a whole spectrum of vibrant colours.
The lower level, accessed directly from the sea front, houses the well-equipped internet cafe complete with welcoming bar and cafe area. Upstairs, the gallery (accessed from the narrow street that runs directly behind the Alpha Bank) has a fabulous panoramic view over the waterfront marina and across to Pounta and Skopleos beyond. There is a relaxing lounge area, bar and pool table – all perfect for ‘chilling out’.
GALLERY MIU is also available for hire as a venue for private functions; parties, weddings, etc and as an exciting exhibition space.
For further details, Maria and Spiros can be contacted directly on +30 24270 22991 or + 30 693 719512
This is one place that is definitely worth a visit!
